Christmas in Huaraz

Ok, time to pick up on my blogs and remember back to Christmas. Last years Christmas was my first abroad but it was a lot of fun. The build up to Christmas seemed a lot shorter and that was the big difference this year. None of the normal Christmas songs and grey cold and snowy days. The decorations in Huaraz were only put up 2 weeks before Christmas which was nice in a way as the whole thing was a lot less commercialised.

To celebrate Christmas with the family and other volunteers we had a Secret Santa. Names were drawn and I got Essy who is the Delgado´s 11 year old sun. Essy had been complaining about the dissapearance of ´his´hot chocolate once the volunteers and I found out about its existence, so I thought it would be funny to buy another pack for him. He is also in to skate stuff so I got him a skater wallet. We gave out the presents on the 23rd and each person had to stand up and describe the person the gift is for and everyone has to guess who it is. I was Mariah´s Secret Santa and she gave me a small stone carving of a figure from a 3,000 year old site called Chavin.

The unconventional Christmas tree and gift giving

In Peru Christmas is celebrated on the evening of the 24th and originally the Delgado´s were expecting there to be as many as 40 people in the house for it! Coming for Christmas appears to work like this... you don´t invite family in join you, instead they decide if they want to visit or not and then tell you. Also if they come then their friends and other family could also come along. In the end some of their aunt´s, uncles, cousins and parents came and there were 8 family members and 8 volunteers making 16 in total.

For the Christmas dinner the volunteers all chipped in for it and bought another turkey and made desserts. With the two turkeys compined we had 17kg of meet for 16 people! Ruby who alos comes from England decided to make a traditional Christmas Pudding complete with brandy. Eggnog, stuffing and other desserts were also cooked up.

Sometime in the evening Luis took the turkey´s next door to be cooked in the giant bread oven [see Thanksgiving blog]. At that point there were only five turkeys in the oven BUT later on this multiplied in to 30 turkeys being crammed in to it! The volume of turkey´s being cooked caused a delay in the meal and we did not eat in the end until 1am.

At 12pm in Celebration of Christmas day we heard the noise of 1000s of bangs from outside the house and the other volunteers and I ventured on to the roof to have a look. The whole city was alight and ringing with the sound of fireworks. Every house had some type of explosive it was letting off in to the night sky. From where the house is you can see all of the city below and it looked very impressive. The celebrations died down after about 30 minutes and then it was time to eat.


All together at the table

A traditional Preuvian Christmas meal is a little different from our own. The start of the meal is the traditional the turkey which was fresh from the oven with lots of stuffing, potatoes, carrots and beetroot. Then up next was Panetone with hot chocolate. Panetone cakes are huge in Peru and they were even giving mini ones away with mobile phones! By this tme we were pretty stuffed but then we had all the puddings to come. The lights went out and in the dark the Christmas Pudding was lit. There was a lot else to go with it and we were pretty full by the end. We got to bed around 3am or so.

The day after was a relaxed affair. We had a big lunch with the considerable amount of turkey that was left and a bottle of champagne was popped open. The day would also be a sad one for two reasons. Two years ago on the 26th of December the Delgado´s daughter at the age of just 20 died of cancer. Nothing was said on the day but we did not see Haydee (the wife) until it was time for us to leave. The second less significant reason was that it was time to leave Huaraz.

I had a really great time in Huaraz and as a beginning of my travels I could not have wished for a better place. I met a really good group of people who I became really good friends with and will keep in touch, I got to improve my Spanish and became friends with some of the locals, I got to live with a greta family who taught me a lot about the culture and their own values, and finally I got to go on a lot of treks and adventures.

School´s Out!

My primary reason for coming to Huaraz was for the volunteer work with Teach Huaraz Peru, however, that may not be abundantly clear from my blogs so far. With the end of the school year I think it´s time to settle that. But firstly the last day of school…

The final day of school at Soledad was hilarious. There were classes running most of the day but they were just the final oral tests with students on what they have learnt. From early afternoon onwards the kids ruled. Children brought in there own decorations and food and drink to celebrate the end of school. Wyatt and I helped some of them string up party tape across the ceilings of one classroom while the children got the ghetto blasters going with reggaeton songs. The students for some unknown reason are allowed to start fires in the back playground and they used them to brew up a chocolate and milk concoction in giant pans. Several classes appeared to have done this and we helped with one of them. By mid afternoon the kids had the run of most of the classrooms and there were no teachers to be found.

Some of the kids and Roxanna

Cooking up a treat

Child safety at the school doesn´t really exist. Cast your eye across the back playground and it isn´t hard to see the bits of wood with nails sticking out or the pieces of concrete and the occasional piece of glass. One day several windows were smashed out due to the student’s ball games and the glass was just lying around on the ground outside the classrooms. Someone had cleaned it up by the next day though. From going to one of the other schools I know that they aren´t all as bad as this.

My time at Colegio de la Soledad has been fun and interesting. The school, as you can see from the photo´s is very poor and caters to students from less wealthy backgrounds. Classes generally start on time but have an influx of students during the first 15 minutes. I was helping to teach students from 12-17 years of age and each class would only receive an hour and a half of English lessons a week. This made it very hard to have a real impact on the kids we were with. Lessons involved teaching the kids basic things such as verbs, adjectives, as as comparisons, time etc. Sometimes half the class time would be taken up testing kids on what they should have learnt for homework. This could be quite frustrating sometimes as you knew there was little benefit you could add. The teacher I was with was called Nancy and she was really nice and very interested in expanding her English knowledge. I also worked with some trainee teachers which was fun as they were lively and gave something different to the classes. Kids really played up in classes and were allowed to walk around the classroom during lessons, chat to other students, throw things at each other and do other work in the class. I don´t however know if this is a reflection of the general school teaching culture or not. There were some good kids there though and you could tell the ones that wanted to learn and were engaged. Overall my experience at Soledad wetted my appetite for getting more involved in helping to teach. I have been more assisting than running any lessons and I would like to have another volunteer teaching experience which offered me greater responsibility to do this.

Professora Nancy

Outside of the school classes which ran from 1-6pm I decided to help out at some evening classes at The Language School. Both classes were a mix of students from the ages of 12 to 30. Percy was the teacher and he was really grateful to have us helping out. The second evening class was a lot of fun as the students were more our age and we went out with them on a few nights out in the evening. Again it was more assisting the students and helping with their pronunciation and lesson subject but you felt they really benefited from you being there.

One of the evening classes

Vallunaraju

Shortly after completing the Santa Cruz Trek Wyatt and I were contemplating another more ambitious but non technical climb. Wyatt had read about a mountain called Vallunaraju which was 5,60m high but was possible to climb without the need actual climbing. We said that we would do it but we left it to the last minute and after we came back from Hatunmachay to organize it. We asked Marian, one of the Germans we had met if he wanted to come in with us on it and he agreed. Guide, transport, clothing and equipment was organised through David who runs a climbing and trekking company. We were still unsure the day before the climb as we had just had a heavy night of drinking but decided to go ahead as it was the only time we had left. We all met that day to sort equipment and buy food. The guide had a real thing about eating rice and did not want any pasta so his nickname for the trip became ´Aroz´ (Rice).

Left to right: Marian, Arroz, Wyatt, Me

So at 6 in the morning we met in Huaraz to begin our adventure. The taxi driver took us 3 hours up in to the mountains in his very rickety vehicle and we got out at the start point 4,200m in the mountains. The climb was split in to two parts. The first part was a 3 hour trek to the camping ground around 4,800m high where we would unpack, eat a lot and sleep until midnight. The second part was the climb from base camp to the top of the mountain. This involved a short 20 minute walk to the base of the ice sheet before putting on crampons and beginning the hike up to the summit. This would take between 5 and 6 hours. The third part was the climb back down to base camp where we would repack and hike down to the taxi.

Equipment:

• Snow boots
• Crampons
• Ice Axe
• Ropes & Carabiner to attach us together
• Head torches
• Warm clothes

The three hour hike was ok but it involved carrying all our gear up steep slopes and it was tiring. We reached base camp around 1pm and I could feel the altitude having its impact on my body. I was very glad we were staying there until the midnight so I could get lots of sleep and fill myself up.

It reached midnight and we got some more food into us and prepared our equipment. We left base camp around 1am and started making our way up the mountain to the ice shelf. Once there we attached snow cramps and readied our ice axes. It was 1.20am and ahead was a 5 hour climb 900m up through snow with potential crevasses to fall in to and only a rope keeping all four of attached together. Aroz led the way, making a route through the snow for us to follow. It was pitch black so we only had the light of our head torches to guide us. This was a good thing because it meant you could not see just how much of a climb we had ahead.

Getting ready for the climb ahead

Progress was slow, I tried to just keep a rhythm going in my head of the steps. 1 step, 2 step, breathe, breathe, 1 step… The altitude made a hard climb harder. We were walking on top of snow which could be waste high if your foot fell on an uncompacted area. Doing that could waste a lot of effort. The slopes would change in gradient and some would require real effort, thrusting your ice axe in to the snow and using it as another way of pulling yourself up to the next step. Gradually the light came up and you could make out where you were going. At one point we got up a part of the mountain only to find we could go no further and had to retrace our steps a little bit to find the right route. We came across a couple of crevasses in our path but luckily they were small. If you look in all you can see is an ice wall fading in to blackness. The scenery of the ice shelf and mountain was amazing though. Our stops to regain energy and breath gradually became more frequent and it becomes harder to get back in to a rhythm the more you take them. The mountain deceives you as you do not see all of where you are going. You will see the top of a snow hill in front of you only to find another awaits you. Eventually we could see the top of the mountain and the guide said we had another 2 hours to go, which didn´t feel so good. The site of the peak carried you forward though. We got closer and closer and it became more of a struggle. Marian the German was suffering a lot towards the end and we all had to wait for him to be ready before we could move on. We could see the top but it kept alluding us. I thought I had made it but there was still another 20m to go, I just had to grit my teeth and press on. Finally, around 7am we were on top and I could collapse in the snow. I think I lay there for about 10 minutes before I could make myself get up and look around. The view really was amazing and we were blessed with an almost cloudless view across the mountains.

Completed

A view from the top

The trek back down was long but manageable. It was amazing to see just how far we had gone in the dark up this mountain. We stayed at base camp for a short time and packed before going down an alternate route to the taxi. Marian was really suffering with a bad headache on the way back down and until basecamp we lacked enough water. The taxi took us back to Huaraz around 5.30pm and we could finally rest.

Post Note. I may have forgetten quite how hard it was but I think I want to to do it again, only higher next time!

The Rising of Huaraz

When we got back to Huaraz we found out that the University in Huaraz had gone on strike in support of Catac and Recuay. The day after we got back Huaraz was effectively shut down in protest and fear. The Mining Minister in Lima came on TV in the evening and played down the strike saying that it was very small. The people of Huaraz did not take too kindly to this and in a show of strength decided to send the Government a message. The images below are of the some of the centre after the protest in the morning. All the fronts of banks and government institutions were smashed up. A couple of people were hurt by tear gas grenades.

Shortly after this the news in Lima wrongly reported that the strike made no sense as the mine would have no impact on the lake and the people. The struggle continues........


One of the banks to be hit


Justice is served?

The Strike and Escape from Hatunmachay!

Unbeknown to all of us before we left Huaraz was that a strike by the villages between Huaraz and Lima (the road to Hatunmachay) was planned for the time we were visiting. Originally this was to be just the time period that we were in Hatunmachay but things spiraled out of control.

A bit about the strike…the strike is in protest to plans to build a large mine (for gold, silver etc.) near the lake which supplies a lot of the towns along its banks with water for drinking, livestock and agriculture. The fear is that the mine will contaminate the water supply and so destroy the livelihoods of the towns and people. It is apparently against the law for the mine to be built in the National Park where it is proposed to be built. Corruption and the buying off of locals has meant that the government have given the go ahead for the foreign mine to be built. From everything we have been told this is certainly against the benefit of any of the locals.

The strike meant that the villages between Catac and Recuay had blocked off road access between the towns in order to get the notice of the government. The trouble increased when two people were killed by police in Catac during the protest. The killings happened on the Wednesday and meant there was no way for us to get transport fully back to Huaraz before the end of the week. We only had access to the outside world by walking to the top of one of the hills. Nobody knew what was happening with the strike and when it would end. It was decided that we would leave early on Thursday morning with the hope of reaching Huaraz by the evening. We were about 50km away from Huaraz so transport was needed.

We started out about 8.30am and made it to the road to Catac by 10am. Luckily we didn’t have to wait much more than an hour until we were able to flag down a combi (mini bus) heading to Catac. This was an international affair consisting of 2 English, 2 Canadians, 1 US, 2 Peru, 4 Germans and 2 Swiss citizens. All thirteen of us were able to cram on to this thing and a bus with a capacity of maybe 18 people suddenly had 25. Dotted across the roads were barricades of earth and rock which allowed just enough room for a car to pass. The driver was nervous on the journey and coming around a bend in the road men in balaclavas jumped out from the side of the road and started throwing rocks at the car. The driver had to stop rush out of the vehicle to tell them to stop. Being innocents in this battle they let us drive through and carry on our journey but it was pretty scary!

After a while we reached Catac, the centre of the troubles and we could see why. Lined all along the road were hundreds of trucks and buses that had been prevented from getting through. We got out of the combi and began walking through. Despite the violence the day before the town was quiet and we saw no police presence. After stopping at a restaurant for lunch we continued out of Catac and on to Recuay. Burnt tires and rocks were strewn across the roads for a long way but in the sun and with good humour it was quite a fun walk. After a couple of hours we made it to Recuay and found it to be just as blocked as Catac. We had no option but to carry on.


Past the final blocade

Eventually we came across some vehicles and about 16 people including us clambered in and on a 4x4 truck. In the back of the truck there were about 13 people and the entire luggage. Each person including myself was hanging on for dear life as it drove down the winding road. I do not think I will ever have another journey like it and it would have been great to have had a picture of. The car came across another blockade and we could go no further on it. Luckily this turned out to be one of the final barriers and after another 15 minutes combi’s were driving up the road to greet us. We all bundled in to one relieved that this would take us all the way back to Huaraz.

After 10 hours on the road we made it back to Huaraz tired, but in good spirits around 6pm. To celebrate, everyone arranged to go out in Huaraz in the eve and it turned in to a really good one including giant Jenga in ‘13 Owls’ and dancing in multiple discotheques.

Hatunmachay

The four other volunteers and I decided to go away for a couple of days of climbing and trekking to a place called Hatunmachay. David who is one of our friends and runs a trekking company organised the trip and we took off on the Sunday. Hatunmachay is a two hour ride away from Huaraz in to the hills 4,200m up. We shared the ride with a group of Germans who were also staying in the refuge with us. The refuge is set in a beautiful area in the heart of the hills and next to an ancient rock forest which is where the climbing is. We got there in the evening on Sunday and chilled out in the refuge in front of the log fire waiting for the Mondays activities. On the first night the sky was completely clear and was lit up with all the stars and constellations, it was a very pretty site.

Sunset on the first day

On the Monday we got up and headed in to the rock forest for some bouldering. I tried my best but still couldn’t get that far on the boulders. You need to build up a lot of flexibility and finger, arm and leg strength to be good at this. The cloud and rain started coming around two so we headed back to the refuge. Once it had cleared up Andres, the owner of the refuge took us out for a walk into the rock forest to show us the ancient cave drawings and that exist in the area. The first place he showed us was a cave and ritual site where some rituals are still done to this day. Some of the paintings and carvings in the rock were 8-10,000 years old and it was amazing to see them close up without anything protecting them. He told us about a hill you can climb at sunrise to see a view of the mountain ranges around and that’s what a few of us decided to do.

By the fire

The next day my alarm went off at 5am and I woke up Wyatt and Dakota. We were out of the shelter at 5.45am to hike the hills and catch the view. It was a completely day and we took about an hour and a half to scale the hills and reach the top. The crest of the hill had been made in to a circular stone pattern and the stones were laden with a layer of snow. The view from the top was really amazing. The hill looked over both the Cordillera Blanca and Huaywash mountain ranges and everything in between. It was certainly worth an earlier rise to see it. We got back to the refuge around 8am and got ready to head to the rock forest again. I was a little too tired to try any more rock climbing so I chilled out in the sun while the other climbed. Later on Tuesday we were meant to head back to Huaraz was for reasons out of our control this was not to be………

The view from the top

The Cordillera Blanca Mountain Range

Club music

Along with We No Speak Americano this is one of the big tracks in the clubs out here: