Vallunaraju

Shortly after completing the Santa Cruz Trek Wyatt and I were contemplating another more ambitious but non technical climb. Wyatt had read about a mountain called Vallunaraju which was 5,60m high but was possible to climb without the need actual climbing. We said that we would do it but we left it to the last minute and after we came back from Hatunmachay to organize it. We asked Marian, one of the Germans we had met if he wanted to come in with us on it and he agreed. Guide, transport, clothing and equipment was organised through David who runs a climbing and trekking company. We were still unsure the day before the climb as we had just had a heavy night of drinking but decided to go ahead as it was the only time we had left. We all met that day to sort equipment and buy food. The guide had a real thing about eating rice and did not want any pasta so his nickname for the trip became ´Aroz´ (Rice).

Left to right: Marian, Arroz, Wyatt, Me

So at 6 in the morning we met in Huaraz to begin our adventure. The taxi driver took us 3 hours up in to the mountains in his very rickety vehicle and we got out at the start point 4,200m in the mountains. The climb was split in to two parts. The first part was a 3 hour trek to the camping ground around 4,800m high where we would unpack, eat a lot and sleep until midnight. The second part was the climb from base camp to the top of the mountain. This involved a short 20 minute walk to the base of the ice sheet before putting on crampons and beginning the hike up to the summit. This would take between 5 and 6 hours. The third part was the climb back down to base camp where we would repack and hike down to the taxi.

Equipment:

• Snow boots
• Crampons
• Ice Axe
• Ropes & Carabiner to attach us together
• Head torches
• Warm clothes

The three hour hike was ok but it involved carrying all our gear up steep slopes and it was tiring. We reached base camp around 1pm and I could feel the altitude having its impact on my body. I was very glad we were staying there until the midnight so I could get lots of sleep and fill myself up.

It reached midnight and we got some more food into us and prepared our equipment. We left base camp around 1am and started making our way up the mountain to the ice shelf. Once there we attached snow cramps and readied our ice axes. It was 1.20am and ahead was a 5 hour climb 900m up through snow with potential crevasses to fall in to and only a rope keeping all four of attached together. Aroz led the way, making a route through the snow for us to follow. It was pitch black so we only had the light of our head torches to guide us. This was a good thing because it meant you could not see just how much of a climb we had ahead.

Getting ready for the climb ahead

Progress was slow, I tried to just keep a rhythm going in my head of the steps. 1 step, 2 step, breathe, breathe, 1 step… The altitude made a hard climb harder. We were walking on top of snow which could be waste high if your foot fell on an uncompacted area. Doing that could waste a lot of effort. The slopes would change in gradient and some would require real effort, thrusting your ice axe in to the snow and using it as another way of pulling yourself up to the next step. Gradually the light came up and you could make out where you were going. At one point we got up a part of the mountain only to find we could go no further and had to retrace our steps a little bit to find the right route. We came across a couple of crevasses in our path but luckily they were small. If you look in all you can see is an ice wall fading in to blackness. The scenery of the ice shelf and mountain was amazing though. Our stops to regain energy and breath gradually became more frequent and it becomes harder to get back in to a rhythm the more you take them. The mountain deceives you as you do not see all of where you are going. You will see the top of a snow hill in front of you only to find another awaits you. Eventually we could see the top of the mountain and the guide said we had another 2 hours to go, which didn´t feel so good. The site of the peak carried you forward though. We got closer and closer and it became more of a struggle. Marian the German was suffering a lot towards the end and we all had to wait for him to be ready before we could move on. We could see the top but it kept alluding us. I thought I had made it but there was still another 20m to go, I just had to grit my teeth and press on. Finally, around 7am we were on top and I could collapse in the snow. I think I lay there for about 10 minutes before I could make myself get up and look around. The view really was amazing and we were blessed with an almost cloudless view across the mountains.

Completed

A view from the top

The trek back down was long but manageable. It was amazing to see just how far we had gone in the dark up this mountain. We stayed at base camp for a short time and packed before going down an alternate route to the taxi. Marian was really suffering with a bad headache on the way back down and until basecamp we lacked enough water. The taxi took us back to Huaraz around 5.30pm and we could finally rest.

Post Note. I may have forgetten quite how hard it was but I think I want to to do it again, only higher next time!