Shortly after this the news in Lima wrongly reported that the strike made no sense as the mine would have no impact on the lake and the people. The struggle continues........
One of the banks to be hit
Justice is served?
Thursday 23 December 2010
The Rising of Huaraz
When we got back to Huaraz we found out that the University in Huaraz had gone on strike in support of Catac and Recuay. The day after we got back Huaraz was effectively shut down in protest and fear. The Mining Minister in Lima came on TV in the evening and played down the strike saying that it was very small. The people of Huaraz did not take too kindly to this and in a show of strength decided to send the Government a message. The images below are of the some of the centre after the protest in the morning. All the fronts of banks and government institutions were smashed up. A couple of people were hurt by tear gas grenades.
Shortly after this the news in Lima wrongly reported that the strike made no sense as the mine would have no impact on the lake and the people. The struggle continues........
One of the banks to be hit
Justice is served?
Shortly after this the news in Lima wrongly reported that the strike made no sense as the mine would have no impact on the lake and the people. The struggle continues........
One of the banks to be hit
Justice is served?
The Strike and Escape from Hatunmachay!
Unbeknown to all of us before we left Huaraz was that a strike by the villages between Huaraz and Lima (the road to Hatunmachay) was planned for the time we were visiting. Originally this was to be just the time period that we were in Hatunmachay but things spiraled out of control.
A bit about the strike…the strike is in protest to plans to build a large mine (for gold, silver etc.) near the lake which supplies a lot of the towns along its banks with water for drinking, livestock and agriculture. The fear is that the mine will contaminate the water supply and so destroy the livelihoods of the towns and people. It is apparently against the law for the mine to be built in the National Park where it is proposed to be built. Corruption and the buying off of locals has meant that the government have given the go ahead for the foreign mine to be built. From everything we have been told this is certainly against the benefit of any of the locals.
The strike meant that the villages between Catac and Recuay had blocked off road access between the towns in order to get the notice of the government. The trouble increased when two people were killed by police in Catac during the protest. The killings happened on the Wednesday and meant there was no way for us to get transport fully back to Huaraz before the end of the week. We only had access to the outside world by walking to the top of one of the hills. Nobody knew what was happening with the strike and when it would end. It was decided that we would leave early on Thursday morning with the hope of reaching Huaraz by the evening. We were about 50km away from Huaraz so transport was needed.
We started out about 8.30am and made it to the road to Catac by 10am. Luckily we didn’t have to wait much more than an hour until we were able to flag down a combi (mini bus) heading to Catac. This was an international affair consisting of 2 English, 2 Canadians, 1 US, 2 Peru, 4 Germans and 2 Swiss citizens. All thirteen of us were able to cram on to this thing and a bus with a capacity of maybe 18 people suddenly had 25. Dotted across the roads were barricades of earth and rock which allowed just enough room for a car to pass. The driver was nervous on the journey and coming around a bend in the road men in balaclavas jumped out from the side of the road and started throwing rocks at the car. The driver had to stop rush out of the vehicle to tell them to stop. Being innocents in this battle they let us drive through and carry on our journey but it was pretty scary!
After a while we reached Catac, the centre of the troubles and we could see why. Lined all along the road were hundreds of trucks and buses that had been prevented from getting through. We got out of the combi and began walking through. Despite the violence the day before the town was quiet and we saw no police presence. After stopping at a restaurant for lunch we continued out of Catac and on to Recuay. Burnt tires and rocks were strewn across the roads for a long way but in the sun and with good humour it was quite a fun walk. After a couple of hours we made it to Recuay and found it to be just as blocked as Catac. We had no option but to carry on.
Past the final blocade
Eventually we came across some vehicles and about 16 people including us clambered in and on a 4x4 truck. In the back of the truck there were about 13 people and the entire luggage. Each person including myself was hanging on for dear life as it drove down the winding road. I do not think I will ever have another journey like it and it would have been great to have had a picture of. The car came across another blockade and we could go no further on it. Luckily this turned out to be one of the final barriers and after another 15 minutes combi’s were driving up the road to greet us. We all bundled in to one relieved that this would take us all the way back to Huaraz.
After 10 hours on the road we made it back to Huaraz tired, but in good spirits around 6pm. To celebrate, everyone arranged to go out in Huaraz in the eve and it turned in to a really good one including giant Jenga in ‘13 Owls’ and dancing in multiple discotheques.
A bit about the strike…the strike is in protest to plans to build a large mine (for gold, silver etc.) near the lake which supplies a lot of the towns along its banks with water for drinking, livestock and agriculture. The fear is that the mine will contaminate the water supply and so destroy the livelihoods of the towns and people. It is apparently against the law for the mine to be built in the National Park where it is proposed to be built. Corruption and the buying off of locals has meant that the government have given the go ahead for the foreign mine to be built. From everything we have been told this is certainly against the benefit of any of the locals.
The strike meant that the villages between Catac and Recuay had blocked off road access between the towns in order to get the notice of the government. The trouble increased when two people were killed by police in Catac during the protest. The killings happened on the Wednesday and meant there was no way for us to get transport fully back to Huaraz before the end of the week. We only had access to the outside world by walking to the top of one of the hills. Nobody knew what was happening with the strike and when it would end. It was decided that we would leave early on Thursday morning with the hope of reaching Huaraz by the evening. We were about 50km away from Huaraz so transport was needed.
We started out about 8.30am and made it to the road to Catac by 10am. Luckily we didn’t have to wait much more than an hour until we were able to flag down a combi (mini bus) heading to Catac. This was an international affair consisting of 2 English, 2 Canadians, 1 US, 2 Peru, 4 Germans and 2 Swiss citizens. All thirteen of us were able to cram on to this thing and a bus with a capacity of maybe 18 people suddenly had 25. Dotted across the roads were barricades of earth and rock which allowed just enough room for a car to pass. The driver was nervous on the journey and coming around a bend in the road men in balaclavas jumped out from the side of the road and started throwing rocks at the car. The driver had to stop rush out of the vehicle to tell them to stop. Being innocents in this battle they let us drive through and carry on our journey but it was pretty scary!
After a while we reached Catac, the centre of the troubles and we could see why. Lined all along the road were hundreds of trucks and buses that had been prevented from getting through. We got out of the combi and began walking through. Despite the violence the day before the town was quiet and we saw no police presence. After stopping at a restaurant for lunch we continued out of Catac and on to Recuay. Burnt tires and rocks were strewn across the roads for a long way but in the sun and with good humour it was quite a fun walk. After a couple of hours we made it to Recuay and found it to be just as blocked as Catac. We had no option but to carry on.
Past the final blocade
Eventually we came across some vehicles and about 16 people including us clambered in and on a 4x4 truck. In the back of the truck there were about 13 people and the entire luggage. Each person including myself was hanging on for dear life as it drove down the winding road. I do not think I will ever have another journey like it and it would have been great to have had a picture of. The car came across another blockade and we could go no further on it. Luckily this turned out to be one of the final barriers and after another 15 minutes combi’s were driving up the road to greet us. We all bundled in to one relieved that this would take us all the way back to Huaraz.
After 10 hours on the road we made it back to Huaraz tired, but in good spirits around 6pm. To celebrate, everyone arranged to go out in Huaraz in the eve and it turned in to a really good one including giant Jenga in ‘13 Owls’ and dancing in multiple discotheques.
Sunday 19 December 2010
Hatunmachay
The four other volunteers and I decided to go away for a couple of days of climbing and trekking to a place called Hatunmachay. David who is one of our friends and runs a trekking company organised the trip and we took off on the Sunday. Hatunmachay is a two hour ride away from Huaraz in to the hills 4,200m up. We shared the ride with a group of Germans who were also staying in the refuge with us. The refuge is set in a beautiful area in the heart of the hills and next to an ancient rock forest which is where the climbing is. We got there in the evening on Sunday and chilled out in the refuge in front of the log fire waiting for the Mondays activities. On the first night the sky was completely clear and was lit up with all the stars and constellations, it was a very pretty site.
On the Monday we got up and headed in to the rock forest for some bouldering. I tried my best but still couldn’t get that far on the boulders. You need to build up a lot of flexibility and finger, arm and leg strength to be good at this. The cloud and rain started coming around two so we headed back to the refuge. Once it had cleared up Andres, the owner of the refuge took us out for a walk into the rock forest to show us the ancient cave drawings and that exist in the area. The first place he showed us was a cave and ritual site where some rituals are still done to this day. Some of the paintings and carvings in the rock were 8-10,000 years old and it was amazing to see them close up without anything protecting them. He told us about a hill you can climb at sunrise to see a view of the mountain ranges around and that’s what a few of us decided to do.
By the fire
Sunset on the first day
On the Monday we got up and headed in to the rock forest for some bouldering. I tried my best but still couldn’t get that far on the boulders. You need to build up a lot of flexibility and finger, arm and leg strength to be good at this. The cloud and rain started coming around two so we headed back to the refuge. Once it had cleared up Andres, the owner of the refuge took us out for a walk into the rock forest to show us the ancient cave drawings and that exist in the area. The first place he showed us was a cave and ritual site where some rituals are still done to this day. Some of the paintings and carvings in the rock were 8-10,000 years old and it was amazing to see them close up without anything protecting them. He told us about a hill you can climb at sunrise to see a view of the mountain ranges around and that’s what a few of us decided to do.
By the fire
The next day my alarm went off at 5am and I woke up Wyatt and Dakota. We were out of the shelter at 5.45am to hike the hills and catch the view. It was a completely day and we took about an hour and a half to scale the hills and reach the top. The crest of the hill had been made in to a circular stone pattern and the stones were laden with a layer of snow. The view from the top was really amazing. The hill looked over both the Cordillera Blanca and Huaywash mountain ranges and everything in between. It was certainly worth an earlier rise to see it. We got back to the refuge around 8am and got ready to head to the rock forest again. I was a little too tired to try any more rock climbing so I chilled out in the sun while the other climbed. Later on Tuesday we were meant to head back to Huaraz was for reasons out of our control this was not to be………
The view from the top
The Cordillera Blanca Mountain Range
Tuesday 30 November 2010
Santa Cruz Trek
The Santa Cruz trek is one of the longer treks you can do in the Cordillera Blanca Mountains and consists of three to four days of trekking. Wyatt had all the camping equipment with him to be able to do it and asked if I wanted to join him on it. The Thursday of last week before Thanksgiving was used to buy all the food and provisions we would need. On the Friday we ventured to the bus station at 7am with backpacks filled with everything we needed for four days. The bus journey was a 4 hour trip which took us from Huaraz and in to the mountainous starting location of Vaqueria, about 3,300m above sea level.
Like a lot of foreign countries road safety does not exist as a term in Peru. Speed on Peruvian roads (at least out of Huaraz) is limited by the number of potholes you have to drive your way around and the aggressiveness of the driver. Our driver happened to be of a very aggressive disposition and wasted no time in overtaking anything in the face of oncoming traffic or on the narrow road which wound its way across the mountains. We did get there quickly though!
We arrived in Vaqueria around11.30 and the first part of the trek involved trekking in to the national park and getting to the first campsite. The walking was mainly through the flat mainly open land between the mountains. We reached the campsite just as the heavens began to open and a deluge of hail and rain came down. After sheltering in the toilet shack we set up tent and packed for the night. We had a small camping stove and cooked spaghetti and chilli con carne. It gets dark quickly in the mountains and by about 7pm there was no light. 
We woke up on the Saturday around 7am although we were not fed, packed up and ready for part two until 9am. Ahead of us was the hardest part of the trek, the climb up to and over the Punta Union pass to reach the next campsite. The weather was cloudy but not cold as we started off. The climb up to the pass took about 4 hours and was one of the hardest physical challenges I have done. The closer the mountain pass became the steeper the climb was. Although I was acclimatized by now, climbing up to 4,750m with a 14kg bag on your back is not easy. This did not matter though as reaching the top of the pass made it all worth it. Sadly not all of the cloud had lifted but we had a great view over the mountains and the land ahead and behind us. Further down the pass was a big greeny blue lake which looked great. We stayed at the top as long as we could and had lunch before heading down the other side. We reached Taullipampa campsite (still 4,250m high) around 3pm and decided to start earlier the next day to complete the rest of the trek in one day.
Like a lot of foreign countries road safety does not exist as a term in Peru. Speed on Peruvian roads (at least out of Huaraz) is limited by the number of potholes you have to drive your way around and the aggressiveness of the driver. Our driver happened to be of a very aggressive disposition and wasted no time in overtaking anything in the face of oncoming traffic or on the narrow road which wound its way across the mountains. We did get there quickly though!
We arrived in Vaqueria around11.30 and the first part of the trek involved trekking in to the national park and getting to the first campsite. The walking was mainly through the flat mainly open land between the mountains. We reached the campsite just as the heavens began to open and a deluge of hail and rain came down. After sheltering in the toilet shack we set up tent and packed for the night. We had a small camping stove and cooked spaghetti and chilli con carne. It gets dark quickly in the mountains and by about 7pm there was no light.
Walking towards the light
We woke up on the Saturday around 7am although we were not fed, packed up and ready for part two until 9am. Ahead of us was the hardest part of the trek, the climb up to and over the Punta Union pass to reach the next campsite. The weather was cloudy but not cold as we started off. The climb up to the pass took about 4 hours and was one of the hardest physical challenges I have done. The closer the mountain pass became the steeper the climb was. Although I was acclimatized by now, climbing up to 4,750m with a 14kg bag on your back is not easy. This did not matter though as reaching the top of the pass made it all worth it. Sadly not all of the cloud had lifted but we had a great view over the mountains and the land ahead and behind us. Further down the pass was a big greeny blue lake which looked great. We stayed at the top as long as we could and had lunch before heading down the other side. We reached Taullipampa campsite (still 4,250m high) around 3pm and decided to start earlier the next day to complete the rest of the trek in one day.
Emotions high at the top
The view down to the lake
On the Sunday we started trekking at 7.30am with about 19km to do, however, now that we were the other side of the passit was all downhill to Cashapampa (2,900m). The weather the best of the three days and the landscape was very pretty in the sun. We walked across large open plains as the mountains opened up and around lakes that formed from the waterfalls cascading down the mountain sides. Then the mountains would close in again and we would be following a narrow fast flowing river downstream. We reached Cashapampa around 2pm and were greeted with a taxi, which we took to Caraz before getting on a bus to Huaraz. We arrived back at the house exhausted at about 6pm. It was a great trip and an excellent experience to have had.
On the Sunday we started trekking at 7.30am with about 19km to do, however, now that we were the other side of the passit was all downhill to Cashapampa (2,900m). The weather the best of the three days and the landscape was very pretty in the sun. We walked across large open plains as the mountains opened up and around lakes that formed from the waterfalls cascading down the mountain sides. Then the mountains would close in again and we would be following a narrow fast flowing river downstream. We reached Cashapampa around 2pm and were greeted with a taxi, which we took to Caraz before getting on a bus to Huaraz. We arrived back at the house exhausted at about 6pm. It was a great trip and an excellent experience to have had.
Following the river
Wyatt and I
Where we have come from
Thanksgiving – an honorary American
The fourth Thursday of November is apparently Thanksgiving Day in America. Wyatt (the only American) suggested celebrating the day and everyone got behind the idea. Canada celebrates Thanksgiving in October but the Canadians thought it would be good to celebrate it again. On the Wednesday Wyatt came home with a 10kg turkey and we knew that it was on. Me and the other two girls contributed the rest of the food. On the Thursday Haydee added the spices and flavourings to the turkey and it was then cooked in a giant brick kiln oven which the neighbours have next door. Along with the turkey came mashed potato, stuffing and green beans. For dessert Dakota made a pumpkin oat and cinnamon pudding with ice cream to add. Along with the family the guests to the meal included David and his girlfriend Marie. Never in my life have I had a juicier, tasty and delicious turkey than the one that came out of that oven and the mash and stuffing were excellent contributors. It was quite a special meal and each person around the table had to say one thing they were thankful for. We were suitably full by the end of the meal and Wyatt and I were ready for the Santa Cruz trek the next day.
Going in
From left to right, Me, Luis, Wyatt, Haydee,
Essy, Marie, David, Dakota, Marly, Cindy
Going in
From left to right, Me, Luis, Wyatt, Haydee,
Essy, Marie, David, Dakota, Marly, Cindy
First Weekend
Alright, there’s a little bit to catch up on now as I have not posted for a week. The weekend before last was my first proper weekend in Huaraz and it was good fun. The Saturday started with going Bouldering, which is climbing large boulders. Wyatt, Dakota and I went along with a group of people Wyatt made friends with from a trekking organization. Equipped with boots we ventured in to the hills to find them boulders. I neither had the strength or flexibility to be any good at this activity but Wyatt and Dakota who are both athletic were very good (Wyatt’s a climber and Dakota does yoga). It was a fun day to spend the start of the weekend and the sun was shining. We got back about 2pm and had a good meal for 5 Soles in town (£1.50).
A boulder!
In the evening we ventured out in to town for the first time. We bought some drinks to drink before and this included a Peruvian spirit called Piscu. Cocktail skills then came in to play as we made Piscu Sours before heading to ‘Extreme Bar’ to meet with David and Junior who we went climbing with. It was a fun night which ended with dancing in a club called ‘Tombo’. None of us could then resist the temptation of a Sex Burger before heading home! Sunday was then a chilled out affair and Wyatt and I found this Chinese run restaurant with rooms upstairs where you can rent and watch films. We watched Adventureland which was pretty funny and I had a chicken curry which gave me food poisoning (not so funny). I didn’t feel quite right until Friday of next week.
A boulder!
In the evening we ventured out in to town for the first time. We bought some drinks to drink before and this included a Peruvian spirit called Piscu. Cocktail skills then came in to play as we made Piscu Sours before heading to ‘Extreme Bar’ to meet with David and Junior who we went climbing with. It was a fun night which ended with dancing in a club called ‘Tombo’. None of us could then resist the temptation of a Sex Burger before heading home! Sunday was then a chilled out affair and Wyatt and I found this Chinese run restaurant with rooms upstairs where you can rent and watch films. We watched Adventureland which was pretty funny and I had a chicken curry which gave me food poisoning (not so funny). I didn’t feel quite right until Friday of next week.
Will it be the Sex or Orgasmo burger?
Monday 22 November 2010
First Trek
On Thursdays there are no school lessons so I have the day to do whatever I please with. On the Wednesday morning I had gone into Huaraz and booked a day trek to Churuc Mountain. I did not think about it enough to realize that this was a 5,500 m high mountain I was to climb and was 17km there and back! The trek started at 7.30am with a bumpy bus ride to a village called Pitec, a small rural farming community and still speak the native Peruvian language Quechua. From there we started the trek to the mountain. Unfortunately the weather was not so good that day and the mountains were dressed in cloud.
The trek to the mountain began with a gradually inclining path in between farming land and the surrounding hills. Then the real strain began. The mountain had a steep incline and clambering up the rocky path took my breath away, literally. I needed to take breathers now and then to deal with the effects of the high altitude. The further we climbed the steeper and more rugged it became. With the altitude came a slight nausea and light headedness which did not improve until we were back down the bottom of the mountain. 4,500m high is Churup Laguna (lake) which is the first stopping point. To make it there, the final part of the climb consisted of climbing the very steep slope with the aid of steel ropes attached to the mountain side. The climb to the laguna really took its toll, but it was worth it upon reaching it. The laguna had crystal clear blue water with the white peak of Churuc set in the background. The tranquility of the place with just the dim raw of the waterfall down the mountain made it pretty special. The stayed there a while and had lunch and a bit of recuperation time. I was however unable to climb any further to reach the mountain summit, which, was still a 1000m above. With that as well as the time we began our descent.
The trek to the mountain began with a gradually inclining path in between farming land and the surrounding hills. Then the real strain began. The mountain had a steep incline and clambering up the rocky path took my breath away, literally. I needed to take breathers now and then to deal with the effects of the high altitude. The further we climbed the steeper and more rugged it became. With the altitude came a slight nausea and light headedness which did not improve until we were back down the bottom of the mountain. 4,500m high is Churup Laguna (lake) which is the first stopping point. To make it there, the final part of the climb consisted of climbing the very steep slope with the aid of steel ropes attached to the mountain side. The climb to the laguna really took its toll, but it was worth it upon reaching it. The laguna had crystal clear blue water with the white peak of Churuc set in the background. The tranquility of the place with just the dim raw of the waterfall down the mountain made it pretty special. The stayed there a while and had lunch and a bit of recuperation time. I was however unable to climb any further to reach the mountain summit, which, was still a 1000m above. With that as well as the time we began our descent.
Still a long way to go!
Lake Churup
My guide, Iban
Me
I made it back to the house at 2pm having walked 15 hard kilometers. It was satisfying to have done it. Next Friday Wyatt (my American housemate) and I will be doing a 4 day trek across The Cordillera Blanca Mountains, which includes a crossing at 4,700m high. I have some more training to do this week!
School & Celebrity Status
I had the funniest day at school on Wednesday, which, I shall come on to. I am helping to teach students at a school who are in the second grade. They are young and at a guess are between the ages of 10 – 14 (I need to find out!). The school is very basic to our standards with a concrete playing area where they also have their assemblies. The rooms are basic concrete shells with windows and there is no central heating anywhere so it can get quite cold. As they are young they are covering quite basic subjects such as learning some verbs and adjectives and putting them in to small sentences. The teacher I work with is called Nancy and she has been very welcoming and friendly. I am helping her with her english and she is helping me with my Spansih. I currently teach from 1pm-6pm Mon – Fri with Thursdays off.
Last week was my first week so it involved meeting each class for the first time. Each class is excited to see a gringo (a white skinned person). At the start of each lesson the teacher introduced me and asked me to do a bit of a talk about myself, where I live, how old I am etc. The kids usually have some questions for you. It is the girls that give the biggest reaction and the question is always “do I have a girlfriend?”When the answer is no they tend to either giggle or scream! The final class I had on Wednesday consisted of about 5 boys and 15 girls. The action from when I entered to when I gave my talk was lots of high pitched screaming! I was then interrogated for most of the lesson on what kind of girls I like, how old should she be and which country she should come from. It was very funny and at the end of the lesson I was asked to give out my email address. I have not checked my messages yet!
Last week was my first week so it involved meeting each class for the first time. Each class is excited to see a gringo (a white skinned person). At the start of each lesson the teacher introduced me and asked me to do a bit of a talk about myself, where I live, how old I am etc. The kids usually have some questions for you. It is the girls that give the biggest reaction and the question is always “do I have a girlfriend?”When the answer is no they tend to either giggle or scream! The final class I had on Wednesday consisted of about 5 boys and 15 girls. The action from when I entered to when I gave my talk was lots of high pitched screaming! I was then interrogated for most of the lesson on what kind of girls I like, how old should she be and which country she should come from. It was very funny and at the end of the lesson I was asked to give out my email address. I have not checked my messages yet!
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